Kui Goa üle viskab, aga meretuule jahutavast armust loobuda ei taha, siis Karnataka rannik on koht, kuhu mõnepäevased trippe teha.
Põhja-Karnatakas olev Gokarna on üsna sarnane Goa hipipesadele, aga vähem kommertslik – huvitavam, veidi odavam ning märgatavama kultuuri- ja religiooniga. Hindutemplitest, Goa hipidest ja "hipidest" on mul juba mulguni seega sinna ma ei lõppude lõpuks ei jõudnudki.
Karnataka coast is da place for small trips if you get fed up by Goa, but giving up the cooling sea breeze seems to extreme.
Gokarna in North Karnataka is very similar to Goan hippie towns, but less commercial – more interesting, a bit cheaper, culture and religion is more visible. I'm cheesed off by Hindu temples, Goan hippies and "hippies" so ended up not going there in the end.
Põhja-Karnatakas olev Gokarna on üsna sarnane Goa hipipesadele, aga vähem kommertslik – huvitavam, veidi odavam ning märgatavama kultuuri- ja religiooniga. Hindutemplitest, Goa hipidest ja "hipidest" on mul juba mulguni seega sinna ma ei lõppude lõpuks ei jõudnudki.
Karnataka coast is da place for small trips if you get fed up by Goa, but giving up the cooling sea breeze seems to extreme.
Gokarna in North Karnataka is very similar to Goan hippie towns, but less commercial – more interesting, a bit cheaper, culture and religion is more visible. I'm cheesed off by Hindu temples, Goan hippies and "hippies" so ended up not going there in the end.
Gokarna asemel pikendasime oma rongisõidu Udupisse, kus asub 13. sajandist pärit krišnaiitide tempel mida külastab sadu tuhandeid palverändureid. Piletid olid küll poole lühema teekonna jaoks, aga magamisasemeteta "lühimaarongides" neid nagunii keegi kontrollida ei viitsi ning kui konduktor juhuslikult peaks tööle ilmuma, siis rumala turisti "ups, kas ma magasin oma peatuse maha?" töötab alati.
Rõngisõit Palolemist Udupisse kestis 6 tundi. Aga mida Sa teed, kui pead pikemat aega ootama või transpordivahendis passima? Loed, räägid, vaatad filme, õpid, mängid, kuulad muusikat, sööd, magad jms, eks? Noh, indialased vaatavad kollektiivselt lakke või räägivad. Teravamad pliiatsid magavad (siin on see võimalik igas olukorras, asendis, ilmastikuolus ja asukohas) või mängivad kaarte, sest nii läheb aeg kiiremini. Ma ei teagi kumb sellest lõpuks rohkem võidab – kas lääneliku efektiivsuse ihalejad, kes pidevalt end tegevuses hoiavad ning halvasti tunnevad, kui suurt miskit teinud pole; või need, kes endale puhkust annavad ning asja rahulikult võtavad. Mulle on igastahes India kontseptsioon ajakasutusest külge hakanud, sest pikad tunid rongis kulgevad peale 3 kuud tunduvalt kiiremini ning 4 tundi oma elust maha molutada ja mitte midagi teha polegi enam nii kohutav mõte kui varem.
We extend our train to Udupi instead of Gokarna to see a Krishna temple from 13. century – a famous place for krishnaite pilgrims. The tickets were for half the distance, but no one cares to check them in the "short-distance" trains and if the TC do happend to show up stupid tourist's "oups, did I missed my stop?" always works.
The train ride from Palolem to Udupi llasted for 6 hours. But what are you doing when you have a long wait or have to sit in a mean of transport? Read, talk, watch the movies, study, play, listen to music, eat, sleep etc., right? Well... Indians watch the ceiling collectively or talk. Brighter ones sleep (here it's possible in every situation, position, weather condition and location) or play the cards, 'cause the time passes faster that way. I don't know who wins the day – the Western effectiveness cravers who keep themselves busy all the time and feel bad if they haven't done much; or the ones who give themselves time to sit back, rest and do nothing. Indians conception of time use hasn't spared me, because long hours in the train go a lot faster than 3 months back and wasting 4 hours of my life and doing nothing don't seem as daunting as before.
Rõngisõit Palolemist Udupisse kestis 6 tundi. Aga mida Sa teed, kui pead pikemat aega ootama või transpordivahendis passima? Loed, räägid, vaatad filme, õpid, mängid, kuulad muusikat, sööd, magad jms, eks? Noh, indialased vaatavad kollektiivselt lakke või räägivad. Teravamad pliiatsid magavad (siin on see võimalik igas olukorras, asendis, ilmastikuolus ja asukohas) või mängivad kaarte, sest nii läheb aeg kiiremini. Ma ei teagi kumb sellest lõpuks rohkem võidab – kas lääneliku efektiivsuse ihalejad, kes pidevalt end tegevuses hoiavad ning halvasti tunnevad, kui suurt miskit teinud pole; või need, kes endale puhkust annavad ning asja rahulikult võtavad. Mulle on igastahes India kontseptsioon ajakasutusest külge hakanud, sest pikad tunid rongis kulgevad peale 3 kuud tunduvalt kiiremini ning 4 tundi oma elust maha molutada ja mitte midagi teha polegi enam nii kohutav mõte kui varem.
We extend our train to Udupi instead of Gokarna to see a Krishna temple from 13. century – a famous place for krishnaite pilgrims. The tickets were for half the distance, but no one cares to check them in the "short-distance" trains and if the TC do happend to show up stupid tourist's "oups, did I missed my stop?" always works.
The train ride from Palolem to Udupi llasted for 6 hours. But what are you doing when you have a long wait or have to sit in a mean of transport? Read, talk, watch the movies, study, play, listen to music, eat, sleep etc., right? Well... Indians watch the ceiling collectively or talk. Brighter ones sleep (here it's possible in every situation, position, weather condition and location) or play the cards, 'cause the time passes faster that way. I don't know who wins the day – the Western effectiveness cravers who keep themselves busy all the time and feel bad if they haven't done much; or the ones who give themselves time to sit back, rest and do nothing. Indians conception of time use hasn't spared me, because long hours in the train go a lot faster than 3 months back and wasting 4 hours of my life and doing nothing don't seem as daunting as before.
Üsna tühi lühimaarong. / A rather empty short-distance train.
Kohale jõudes olime jahmunud, et basic ööbimine Udupis oli toa puhtusele mõeldess väga odav (200 ruupiat ehk 2€ kahene tuba turistiobjektide kõrval), kuid ega seal suur midagi peale templikompleksi ja söömise teha polnudki (1-2 päeva on täiesti piisav). Olin väga üllatunud, et Udupi on meeldivaima õhkkonnaga linn Indias, kus käinud olen, ning see jäi nii ka reisi lõpuni. Ilmselt võlus mind linna autenstsus, puhtus ja rahulikkus, mille kombinatsiooni peab siin tikutulega taga otsima. Olen kindel, et see on väga vinge koht, kus suure hindude/krišnaiitide festivali ajal olla!
We were surprised to see the basic accommodation in Udupi be über-cheap considering the cleanness (200 rupees aka 2€ for a double next to the main tourist place), but there wasn't much to do except the temple complex and eating (1-2 days is enough). Udupi securing the place of the most delightful town I've seen in India was quite a surprise. I was probably charmed by the authenthy, cleanness and calmness which is a needle in a haystack combination in India. I am sure it's a nice place to be on a krishnaites festival!
We were surprised to see the basic accommodation in Udupi be über-cheap considering the cleanness (200 rupees aka 2€ for a double next to the main tourist place), but there wasn't much to do except the temple complex and eating (1-2 days is enough). Udupi securing the place of the most delightful town I've seen in India was quite a surprise. I was probably charmed by the authenthy, cleanness and calmness which is a needle in a haystack combination in India. I am sure it's a nice place to be on a krishnaites festival!
Hindude jasmiinikeed altarite, autode või enda ehtimiseks. / The Hindu jasmine chains for decorating altars, cars or themselves.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7d/Udupi_Sri_Krishna_Matha_Temple.jpg
Lillekeste ja lainekeste ehk tamiili keel. / The language of flowers and waves aka Tamili.
Häbelikud templipoisid söögijärjekorras. / Small shy monks in a food line.
Rõõmus ja tore taldrikute valmistaja. / A jolly and nice "plate" maker.
Lehmapesija on templis auväärne amet! / The cow-washer is a respected profession in a temple!
Lehmad olid tõepoolest uskumatult puhtad ja pehmed. / The cows do were unbelievably clean and soft.
Püha vesi hommikuudus. / Holy water in the morning mist.
Teise poole päevast veetsime Udupi lähedal oleval pisikesel Saint Mary saarel, kuhu Vasco da Gama 1498 väidetavalt maabus. Paadisõit sinna oli juba pool lõbu, sest suured lained väntsutasid pisikest paadikest korralikult.
We spent the other half of the day on a tiny Saint Mary island where Vasco da Gama suposedly landed in 1498. The ferry ride there was half of the fun, 'cause the big waves showed their playful side on the boat.
We spent the other half of the day on a tiny Saint Mary island where Vasco da Gama suposedly landed in 1498. The ferry ride there was half of the fun, 'cause the big waves showed their playful side on the boat.
Tehne nüüd pildi jaoks nii nagu te töötaksite ehk India töökultuur. / Act for the pic like you'd be doing something aka the working culture of India.
Hindupärane naiste juukseehe. / If you're going to India be sure to wear some flowers in your hair.
Järgmine päev oli Mangalore päev, kuid selle võlu jäi minu jaoks peitu – jäi vaid mulje künklikust veidi suuremast linnast, kus pole palju näha ja teha. Käisime mõnes kirikus ja templis ning õhtu veetsime ostukeskuses.
Olin ainus, kes läks Goasse tagasi ning järgmisel päeval ärkasin kell 5.45 üles, et netist vaadatud 6.30 rongile jõuda, kuid oh üllatust: tegelikult läks rong 6.10. Mis siis ikka, ootasin naiste ooteruumis 3 tundi järgmist, millest jäin vale platvormi tõttu maha, sest roosikeste ja lainekeste ehk tamiili keele lugemisega on mul siiani raskusi. Järgmise rongini kulunud 5 tundi ning 8 tundi rongis kulgesid India moodi logeledes ja magades ning lääne moodi mõeldes, et mida kõike selle 16 tunniga teha oleks saanud.
Next day was the day for Mangalore, but the enchanting Mangalore was left hidden for me – I only saw a bigger hilly city with not much to see and do. Went to see some churces and a temple, the evening was spent in a shopping mall.
Next day I woke up at 5.45 to catch the 6.30 train checked online just to arrive to the station 5 minutes after the actual departure: 6.10. Alright, happens... Waited 3 hours more for the next one in the ladies waiting room just to miss it due to waiting on the wrong platform. I'm "still" having problems reading the train signs written in the roses and waves aka Tamili. 5 hours of waiting 'til the third train and 8 hours in the train were spent sleeping and loafing about Indian style and Western style thinking about all the productive things that could have been done in that 16 hours.
Olin ainus, kes läks Goasse tagasi ning järgmisel päeval ärkasin kell 5.45 üles, et netist vaadatud 6.30 rongile jõuda, kuid oh üllatust: tegelikult läks rong 6.10. Mis siis ikka, ootasin naiste ooteruumis 3 tundi järgmist, millest jäin vale platvormi tõttu maha, sest roosikeste ja lainekeste ehk tamiili keele lugemisega on mul siiani raskusi. Järgmise rongini kulunud 5 tundi ning 8 tundi rongis kulgesid India moodi logeledes ja magades ning lääne moodi mõeldes, et mida kõike selle 16 tunniga teha oleks saanud.
Next day was the day for Mangalore, but the enchanting Mangalore was left hidden for me – I only saw a bigger hilly city with not much to see and do. Went to see some churces and a temple, the evening was spent in a shopping mall.
Next day I woke up at 5.45 to catch the 6.30 train checked online just to arrive to the station 5 minutes after the actual departure: 6.10. Alright, happens... Waited 3 hours more for the next one in the ladies waiting room just to miss it due to waiting on the wrong platform. I'm "still" having problems reading the train signs written in the roses and waves aka Tamili. 5 hours of waiting 'til the third train and 8 hours in the train were spent sleeping and loafing about Indian style and Western style thinking about all the productive things that could have been done in that 16 hours.
Svastika. / Swastika.
Templi ees käis rituaal uute sõiduvahendite õnnistamiseks: pandit (hindu preester) teeb mitu ringi ümber ehitud õnnistatava, loeb palveid, pritsib püha vett ning katsub kõiki põhilisi osi kaitsmaks õnnetuste ja rikki mineku eest. Seejärel viskab palvega kookose suure hooga puruks. Omanik paigutab kõigi rataste ette sidrunid, sõidab üle nende ning volaà! Äkki seepärast ma ei näinudki selles hullumeelses liikluses ühtegi õnnetust! :)
A ritual in front of a temple for blessing the new vehicles: pandit (a Hindu priest) circles many times around the decorated vehicle, reads prayers, splashes the holy water and touches all the main parts for good luck and protection from crashes and breaking down. Hereupon throws a coconut into smashes with a prayer. The owner puts lemons in front of all the wheels, drives over them and volaà! Maybe that's the reason I didn't see any crashes in that crazy traffic! :)
A ritual in front of a temple for blessing the new vehicles: pandit (a Hindu priest) circles many times around the decorated vehicle, reads prayers, splashes the holy water and touches all the main parts for good luck and protection from crashes and breaking down. Hereupon throws a coconut into smashes with a prayer. The owner puts lemons in front of all the wheels, drives over them and volaà! Maybe that's the reason I didn't see any crashes in that crazy traffic! :)
Templi hinnakiri. 100 ruupiat on veidi rohkem kui euro. / Price listing. 100 rupees is a bit more than 1€.