Hei!
Okei, ma pean kõigepealt alustama vabandusega, et pole kõige eeskujulikum blogija ja olen teid infonälga jätnud. Mis seal salata, olen lihtsalt ekstreemselt laisk olnud. Luban, et nüüdsest kirjutan 1-2 postitust nädalas. Kirjutada on ju tegelikult paljust! Tuletage mulle seda aeg-ajalt meelde, eks...
Hey!
Okay, I must start with an apology for not being an excellent blogger and left you into information drought. I've just been extremely lazy! I promise to post 1-2 times per week from now on, 'cause actually there's a lot to write about! Just remind occasionally...
Okei, ma pean kõigepealt alustama vabandusega, et pole kõige eeskujulikum blogija ja olen teid infonälga jätnud. Mis seal salata, olen lihtsalt ekstreemselt laisk olnud. Luban, et nüüdsest kirjutan 1-2 postitust nädalas. Kirjutada on ju tegelikult paljust! Tuletage mulle seda aeg-ajalt meelde, eks...
Hey!
Okay, I must start with an apology for not being an excellent blogger and left you into information drought. I've just been extremely lazy! I promise to post 1-2 times per week from now on, 'cause actually there's a lot to write about! Just remind occasionally...
Enne jõule pakkisin oma koti ning läksin Mumbaisse, et pühad Goas veeta. Rongisõit kestis umbes 20 tundi ning minu õnneks olid mu boksinaabrid toredad (noh, vähemalt õhtu saabumiseni). Võtsin 2 AC klassi 20 euro eest, kus ühes boksis on 4 linadega voodit (tegelikult muutub boks kuueseks, sest vahekäigus on veel 2 voodit), pisike laud, stepslid ning konditsioneer, mis puhus jääkülma õhku. Ei ütleks, et rongid väga mugavad oleks, aga olin üllatunud, et polnudki nii stagnatiseerunud, kui ootasin.
Vaatasin omajagu filme, lugesin jõuludeks saadud India Lonely Planetit, lebotasin ning rääkisin naabritega. Ma ei tea, kas eestlased hakkaksid 20-tunnisel reisil oma saatusekaaslastega niiviisi suhtlema (pigem vist mitte!), aga siin on omaette hoidmine pea ebaviisakas. Rongides-bussides on poolkohustuslik rääkida ning kõike jagada. Midagi teistsugust ja see on väga armas!
Kõik oli väga hästi öö saabumiseni, sest siis alles õige rongielu algas! Ma pole KUNAGI kuulnud kedagi nii valjult ja koledasti norskamas, kui minu kohal olev onkel seda tegi!!! Kui terve meie boks just seepärast üleval polnud, siis norskasid ka teised. Olin ainuke julge ning ebaviisakas (?), kes teda mitu korda üles ajas, et ta 5 minuti pärast jälle norskama hakkaks. Tal oli hommikul natuke häbi ning mul kah, sest ta oli tegelikult tore ja lahke mees. Kirjutasin öösel eelmise blogipostituse, kõndisin vagunis ringi ning veendusin, et absoluutselt kõik jagavad sama muret norskavate naabrite pärast. Reisimise rõõmud, eksole!
Packed my bag and left to Mumbai before Christmas to spend my holidays there. The train ride lasted for 20 hours and for my luck the neighbors were nice (well, at least until the night). Took the 2 AC class for about 20€ which holds 4 beds with sheets (also the box will become to 6 at daytime due to 2 beds in the aisle), a tiny table, plugs and an A/C blowing ice-cold air. Wouldn't say trains are comfortable, but I was surprised of them not being as stagnated as I expected.
Looked a fair share of movies, read the India Lonely Planet gotten for Christmas, chilled and talked with neighbors. Don't know if Estonians would start socializing (prolly not!) if we'd had such long journeys, but here it's almost impolite to be a loner. It's semi-forced to talk and share everything in the trains-buses. Something different and very sweet!
Everything was well before the real train-life started at night! I've NEVER heard anyone snore as loudly and awfully as the uncle on my top bed. If the whole box wasn't awake because of that then everyone else were also snoring. I was the only brave and impolite (?) to wake him up several times at night just to hear him continue even more loudly in 5 minutes. He was a bit ashamed in the morning and so was I, 'cause he was actually very nice and kind guy. At night I wrote the last post, walked around the wagon and ascertained that everyone was sharing the same problem of snoring neighbors. The joys of travelling, right?
Vaatasin omajagu filme, lugesin jõuludeks saadud India Lonely Planetit, lebotasin ning rääkisin naabritega. Ma ei tea, kas eestlased hakkaksid 20-tunnisel reisil oma saatusekaaslastega niiviisi suhtlema (pigem vist mitte!), aga siin on omaette hoidmine pea ebaviisakas. Rongides-bussides on poolkohustuslik rääkida ning kõike jagada. Midagi teistsugust ja see on väga armas!
Kõik oli väga hästi öö saabumiseni, sest siis alles õige rongielu algas! Ma pole KUNAGI kuulnud kedagi nii valjult ja koledasti norskamas, kui minu kohal olev onkel seda tegi!!! Kui terve meie boks just seepärast üleval polnud, siis norskasid ka teised. Olin ainuke julge ning ebaviisakas (?), kes teda mitu korda üles ajas, et ta 5 minuti pärast jälle norskama hakkaks. Tal oli hommikul natuke häbi ning mul kah, sest ta oli tegelikult tore ja lahke mees. Kirjutasin öösel eelmise blogipostituse, kõndisin vagunis ringi ning veendusin, et absoluutselt kõik jagavad sama muret norskavate naabrite pärast. Reisimise rõõmud, eksole!
Packed my bag and left to Mumbai before Christmas to spend my holidays there. The train ride lasted for 20 hours and for my luck the neighbors were nice (well, at least until the night). Took the 2 AC class for about 20€ which holds 4 beds with sheets (also the box will become to 6 at daytime due to 2 beds in the aisle), a tiny table, plugs and an A/C blowing ice-cold air. Wouldn't say trains are comfortable, but I was surprised of them not being as stagnated as I expected.
Looked a fair share of movies, read the India Lonely Planet gotten for Christmas, chilled and talked with neighbors. Don't know if Estonians would start socializing (prolly not!) if we'd had such long journeys, but here it's almost impolite to be a loner. It's semi-forced to talk and share everything in the trains-buses. Something different and very sweet!
Everything was well before the real train-life started at night! I've NEVER heard anyone snore as loudly and awfully as the uncle on my top bed. If the whole box wasn't awake because of that then everyone else were also snoring. I was the only brave and impolite (?) to wake him up several times at night just to hear him continue even more loudly in 5 minutes. He was a bit ashamed in the morning and so was I, 'cause he was actually very nice and kind guy. At night I wrote the last post, walked around the wagon and ascertained that everyone was sharing the same problem of snoring neighbors. The joys of travelling, right?
Hästi tore vanaema ja pisike preili! / A very sweet grandma and a young miss!
Ärkasin 45 minutit enne oma peatust üles, sest siin ei tea kunagi, kas rong saabub 20 minutit enne või pärast õiget kella, ning kõlaritest tulevast teadaandest võib ainult unistada. Eeslinnad ja tühermaad olid täis järvesid ning märga maad, sest Mumbai nagu Tartugi on laienenud soisele maale. Megaslummid olid hommikuses udus ning suurt aimu nendest kahjuks ei saanud.
Dharavi Põhja-Mumbais on üks maailma suurimaid ning see on tõepoolest hiiglaslik! Nüüdseks olevat slummid (algelise) kanalisatsiooni, infrastruktuuri ja elektriga juba täitsa elamisväärsed ning elanikud maksvat isegi üüri. Slumdog Millionaire tekitas kohalikes palju furoori, sest näitas Mumbaid ja Indiat ainult halvast küljest – olukord polevat enam üldse nii hull –, kuigi India ei pääse filmi olustikust lähima poole sajandi jooksul kuhugile.
Pidin rongijaamas linna lähirongile ümber istuma ning infopunkti onu ütles, et kohe saabub naiste erirong. Vaatasin ringi – 2 naist, rongijaam paksult mehi täis! – ning ei saanud aru, kellele see mõeldud oli. Eraldi vagun – loomulikult! –, aga eraldi rong? Väiksemates (noh, India mõistes...) ja konservatiivsemates kohtades eeldan, et olen üks vähestest naistest rongijaamas, aga ma tõesti ei osanud oodata, et see on ka nii Mumbais, India kosmopoliitses finants- ja filmipealinnas!
Haarasin ka tänavaputkast ühe Frankie ehk India kreemitoru, mis hiljem osutus ebameeldivaks veaks... :(
Here you never know if the train will arrive 20 minutes before or after the schedule, and you can only dream of speaker announcements, so I woke up 45 min before my stop. Suburbs and wastelands were full of lakes and wet soil, 'cause Mumbai as Tartu has expanded onto marsh. Mega slums were hidden into morning fog and I couldn't get an idea about them.
Dharavi in North-Mumbai is one of the biggest ones and it's really huge!! The slums are said to be almost habitabe with their (primitive) sewage, infrastructure and electricity by now and the habitats are even paying rent like in any other neighborhood. The locals were enraged by Slumdog Millionaire. It showed mostly negative parts of Mumbai and India, the situation isn't believed to be so bad, even though India is not going to escape the set-up of that movie in the nearest half century.
Had to transfer to a commute train after my stop and the uncle at the info stop told there will be a ladies only train arriving in few minutes. Looked around – 2 women, station packed with men – and had hard time understanding the necessity of that train. A separate wagon, certainly, but a separate train? I'm assuming to be one of the few ladies in the railway stations in smaller (well, according to Indian standards...) and more conservative places, but didn't expect to see it in Mumbai, India's cosmopolite finance and film capital!
Also grabbed a Frankie which is an Indian cream roll from a street stand, but that turned out to be a big mistake afterwards... :(
Dharavi Põhja-Mumbais on üks maailma suurimaid ning see on tõepoolest hiiglaslik! Nüüdseks olevat slummid (algelise) kanalisatsiooni, infrastruktuuri ja elektriga juba täitsa elamisväärsed ning elanikud maksvat isegi üüri. Slumdog Millionaire tekitas kohalikes palju furoori, sest näitas Mumbaid ja Indiat ainult halvast küljest – olukord polevat enam üldse nii hull –, kuigi India ei pääse filmi olustikust lähima poole sajandi jooksul kuhugile.
Pidin rongijaamas linna lähirongile ümber istuma ning infopunkti onu ütles, et kohe saabub naiste erirong. Vaatasin ringi – 2 naist, rongijaam paksult mehi täis! – ning ei saanud aru, kellele see mõeldud oli. Eraldi vagun – loomulikult! –, aga eraldi rong? Väiksemates (noh, India mõistes...) ja konservatiivsemates kohtades eeldan, et olen üks vähestest naistest rongijaamas, aga ma tõesti ei osanud oodata, et see on ka nii Mumbais, India kosmopoliitses finants- ja filmipealinnas!
Haarasin ka tänavaputkast ühe Frankie ehk India kreemitoru, mis hiljem osutus ebameeldivaks veaks... :(
Here you never know if the train will arrive 20 minutes before or after the schedule, and you can only dream of speaker announcements, so I woke up 45 min before my stop. Suburbs and wastelands were full of lakes and wet soil, 'cause Mumbai as Tartu has expanded onto marsh. Mega slums were hidden into morning fog and I couldn't get an idea about them.
Dharavi in North-Mumbai is one of the biggest ones and it's really huge!! The slums are said to be almost habitabe with their (primitive) sewage, infrastructure and electricity by now and the habitats are even paying rent like in any other neighborhood. The locals were enraged by Slumdog Millionaire. It showed mostly negative parts of Mumbai and India, the situation isn't believed to be so bad, even though India is not going to escape the set-up of that movie in the nearest half century.
Had to transfer to a commute train after my stop and the uncle at the info stop told there will be a ladies only train arriving in few minutes. Looked around – 2 women, station packed with men – and had hard time understanding the necessity of that train. A separate wagon, certainly, but a separate train? I'm assuming to be one of the few ladies in the railway stations in smaller (well, according to Indian standards...) and more conservative places, but didn't expect to see it in Mumbai, India's cosmopolite finance and film capital!
Also grabbed a Frankie which is an Indian cream roll from a street stand, but that turned out to be a big mistake afterwards... :(
Tühja naisterongi nautimas. Muide, tipptunnil olevat 1800-kohalises üldvagunis kuni 7000 inimest! / Enjoying empty women's train. Btw, the general wagon with capacity of 1800 is said to have up to 7000 travelers at the peak hour.
Sadasin sõbra juurde sisse ning peale pisikest uinakut läksime söögijahile. Kuna oli laupäeva lõuna (Mumbai on üsna tihedalt läänemaailmaga seotud ning paljud lääne firmade heaks töötavad kohalikud saavad laupäeviti puhata) siis olid kõik popid kohad puupüsti täis. Käisime ühes 5-korruselses kohvik-restoranis, kus vaatamata umbes 500 kohale polnud võimalik lauda saada! Istusime hoopiski kohalikus Starbucksis, mis palkab kuulmis- ja rääkimispuudega baristasid. Päris äge!
Tuuritasime veidi ringi Center-Suburbs'ides, kus vaatamata linnaosa nimele on ka üht-teist näha ja teha. Nägin nii India tüdrukuid kui turiste lühkade ja miniseelikutega ringi patseerimas, sest Mumbais on see päevasel ajal enam-vähem okei. Kohalik musurand ja -sild, mis on ainukesed avalikud kohad Mumbais, kus õrnutsemine on sotsiaalselt aktsepteeritav, oli päikeseloojangul paarikesi täis. Seal juhtuvat ka aeg-ajalt, et ei piirduta vaid musitamise ja kallistamisega. Eip, mitte tiirased teismelised, vaid keskealised konservatiivse välimusega paarikesed. Ning ära unusta, et see on India, kus paljudes kohtades ei või isegi mitte käevangust kinni hoida!
Landed at my host's place and went for a food hunt after a small nap. All the popular places were packed because of Saturday noon (Mumbai is quite tied with the Western world so a lot of bombayans working for Western companies can enjoy a free Saturday). It was even impossible to get a table at about 5-stories cafe-restaurant with around 500 seats so ended up at a local Starbucks which is hiring baristas with hearing and talking disabilities. Pretty awesome!
Toured around a bit in the afternoon in the Central-Suburbs which has some things to see and do despite the name of the block. Saw Indian girls and tourists walking around in miniskirts and shorts, 'cause it's quite okay in Mumbai in daily time. The only very public places in Mumbai where pucbic showing of affection is socially acceptable, the kissing beach (Juhu) and bridge, were full of couples at sunset. From time to time people are not limiting themselves only with kissing and hugging, as I heard... Noup, not horny teenagers, but conservative middle-aged couples. And don't forget it's India where it's even not allowed for couples to hold arm-in-arm in most of the places!
Tuuritasime veidi ringi Center-Suburbs'ides, kus vaatamata linnaosa nimele on ka üht-teist näha ja teha. Nägin nii India tüdrukuid kui turiste lühkade ja miniseelikutega ringi patseerimas, sest Mumbais on see päevasel ajal enam-vähem okei. Kohalik musurand ja -sild, mis on ainukesed avalikud kohad Mumbais, kus õrnutsemine on sotsiaalselt aktsepteeritav, oli päikeseloojangul paarikesi täis. Seal juhtuvat ka aeg-ajalt, et ei piirduta vaid musitamise ja kallistamisega. Eip, mitte tiirased teismelised, vaid keskealised konservatiivse välimusega paarikesed. Ning ära unusta, et see on India, kus paljudes kohtades ei või isegi mitte käevangust kinni hoida!
Landed at my host's place and went for a food hunt after a small nap. All the popular places were packed because of Saturday noon (Mumbai is quite tied with the Western world so a lot of bombayans working for Western companies can enjoy a free Saturday). It was even impossible to get a table at about 5-stories cafe-restaurant with around 500 seats so ended up at a local Starbucks which is hiring baristas with hearing and talking disabilities. Pretty awesome!
Toured around a bit in the afternoon in the Central-Suburbs which has some things to see and do despite the name of the block. Saw Indian girls and tourists walking around in miniskirts and shorts, 'cause it's quite okay in Mumbai in daily time. The only very public places in Mumbai where pucbic showing of affection is socially acceptable, the kissing beach (Juhu) and bridge, were full of couples at sunset. From time to time people are not limiting themselves only with kissing and hugging, as I heard... Noup, not horny teenagers, but conservative middle-aged couples. And don't forget it's India where it's even not allowed for couples to hold arm-in-arm in most of the places!
Veetsime mõnusalt aega ning valmistusime välja minema, kui tundsin, et mul on väga paha olla. Kõht hakkas valutama ning tekkis pisike palavik, pidin Delhi Bellyle alla vanduma hoopiski Mumbais. Magama jäin igastahes kurvalt, sest oli laupäeva õhtu ning Mumbai on kuulus oma ööelu poolest + peamine tuuritamise päev läks raisku. Veetsin järgmise päeva WCs, voodis palavikus väherdes, filme vaadates ning sõbraga rääkides. Mumbai Kabiri ema tegi mulle India haigetoitu: riis kuuma vee ning kollajuurega (tumeric), mis parandas mu enesetunnet iga söögikorraga. Järgmiseks päevaks olin enam-vähem terve ning valmis 16-tunniseks bussireisiks Goasse. Nüüd igastahes tekitab Frankie nägemine okserefleksi!
We were spending some nice time and got ready for going out when I suddenly felt very sick. My tummy started to ache and a small fever rised, I had to yield to Delhi Belly in Mumbai. Fell asleep being sad, 'cause it was Saturday night and Mumbai is very famous for it's nightlife + the main day of sightseeing got wasted. Spent the following day in the restroom, rolling in the bed, watching movies and talking to my friend. Mumbai Kabir's mom prepared some Indian sick food: rice with hot water and tumeric which bettered my situation with every meal. By the next day I was almost well and ready for a 16-hour bus ride to Goa. Well, now I'm getting a vomiting reflects just from seeing a Frankie!
We were spending some nice time and got ready for going out when I suddenly felt very sick. My tummy started to ache and a small fever rised, I had to yield to Delhi Belly in Mumbai. Fell asleep being sad, 'cause it was Saturday night and Mumbai is very famous for it's nightlife + the main day of sightseeing got wasted. Spent the following day in the restroom, rolling in the bed, watching movies and talking to my friend. Mumbai Kabir's mom prepared some Indian sick food: rice with hot water and tumeric which bettered my situation with every meal. By the next day I was almost well and ready for a 16-hour bus ride to Goa. Well, now I'm getting a vomiting reflects just from seeing a Frankie!
Lähen kindlasti Mumbaisse tagasi, mulle väga meeldis seal! Mõnus atmosfäär, väga roheline võrreldes teiste suurlinnadega, palju huvitavaid-ägedaid kohti, täis ajalugu, kuulsusi ning vastuolusid. Pole ime, et veerand Indiat sinna hirmuäratavalt suure tempoga elama-töötama tilgub ning linn üha suuremasse ruumi-, infrastruktuuri- ja populatsiooniprobleemidesse upub. Või on see magnet siiski bombeilaste 1000 euro ringis olev kolmekordne keskmine India aastapalk?
I will definitely return to Mumbai some day, I really enjoyed it! A different atmosphere, very green compared to other metropolitans, tons of interesting-awesome places, full of history, celebrities and controversies. No wonder quarter of India is dripping there with a frightening speed and flooding the city with ever increasing room, infrastructure and population problems. Or is the average annual income of 1000 euros which is tree times the national average the magnet after all?
I will definitely return to Mumbai some day, I really enjoyed it! A different atmosphere, very green compared to other metropolitans, tons of interesting-awesome places, full of history, celebrities and controversies. No wonder quarter of India is dripping there with a frightening speed and flooding the city with ever increasing room, infrastructure and population problems. Or is the average annual income of 1000 euros which is tree times the national average the magnet after all?