This post is brought to you by Train Snoring Championship of India. You will find us in every means of overnight transport in every shapes and sizes on every populated route!
Ehk Riinu ei saanud Mumbai rongis magada, sest ta pole ikka kõrvatroppe muretsenud.
Ehk Riinu ei saanud Mumbai rongis magada, sest ta pole ikka kõrvatroppe muretsenud.
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Niisiis, 3 nädalat tagasi laupäeval peale tööpäeva (jah, laisad hindud töötavad 6 päeva nädalas, et töö tehtud saaks, ning ma tunnen end veidi ahistatuna, sest mul on jätkuvalt enda ja lääne töökombed) põrutasime Agrasse. 240 km 6 tunniga – pole probleemi. Kui Euroopas tähendab teemaks teenust, siis siin on see lihtsalt formaalsus. Iga 40 km tagant 60 eurosenti per auto läheb mõnusaks äraolemiseks teeomanikele, mitte selle algseks eesmärgiks: teeremondiks ja ohutuse tagamiseks. A kes see käskis sul löökaugust läbi sõita ja rehv katki teha ehk siis tunnistasin esimest korda elus rehvivahetust. Kell 2 öösel.
Agrasse jõudsime 4 ajal ning check in'is selgus, et mul jäi pass maha. Õnneks hotellis sellest stseeni ei tehtud, aga käisin päev otsa saba jalgevahel ringi, sest siin pannakse selle eest 6 kuuks vangi. Ulme!
So we rushed to Agra after work on Saturday 3 weeks ago (yes, lazy Indians have to work 6 days a week to get the work done and I feel a bit harassed by that, because I still work according to my and Western working habits). 240 km with 6 hours – no problem! When toll stands for a service in Europe then here it's just an obligation. 60 euro cents after every 40 km per car goes to enjoyment of life for the road owners not to its primal intention: ensuring safety and mending the road. But who commanded on driving through punch-holes and break the tire? Aka I witnessed a changing of the tire first time in my life. At 2 am.
We reached Agra around 4 am and I suddenly dawned on leaving my passport at home. Fortunately they didn't make a scene about it at the hotel, but I walked around with the tail between my legs for the whole day, because they can lock you up for 6 months for that. Jaw dropping!
Agrasse jõudsime 4 ajal ning check in'is selgus, et mul jäi pass maha. Õnneks hotellis sellest stseeni ei tehtud, aga käisin päev otsa saba jalgevahel ringi, sest siin pannakse selle eest 6 kuuks vangi. Ulme!
So we rushed to Agra after work on Saturday 3 weeks ago (yes, lazy Indians have to work 6 days a week to get the work done and I feel a bit harassed by that, because I still work according to my and Western working habits). 240 km with 6 hours – no problem! When toll stands for a service in Europe then here it's just an obligation. 60 euro cents after every 40 km per car goes to enjoyment of life for the road owners not to its primal intention: ensuring safety and mending the road. But who commanded on driving through punch-holes and break the tire? Aka I witnessed a changing of the tire first time in my life. At 2 am.
We reached Agra around 4 am and I suddenly dawned on leaving my passport at home. Fortunately they didn't make a scene about it at the hotel, but I walked around with the tail between my legs for the whole day, because they can lock you up for 6 months for that. Jaw dropping!
Hommikul vett ja kaht Red Bulli ostes küsis onkel minult India kohta ulme summa – 3 eutsi. Siin on õnneks igale tootele all inclusive maksudega hind peale trükitud, aga ta väitis süüdimatult, et tema poes lähevad maksud kah juurde. Alles pärast 5-minutilist seletamist oli ta nõus mulle õige hinna tegema.
Nüüdseks hakkab juba vaikselt närvidele käima, kuidas hindud arvavad, et kõik valged on sularahaautomaadid ning neile kehtivad teised hinnad. Aga miks siis nii? Sest India ühiskonnas oodatakse igaühelt nii suurt panust, kui palju vahendeid on. Kui pole suurt miskit anda, siis antakse sulle, aga kui on rohkem, siis pead andma kah rohkem. Simple as that, aga isekus ja ahnus ei lase seda tihtipeale mõista. Lääne inimestele tundub see ebaõiglase koorimisena, sest meie ühiskonnas oodatakse igaühelt sama panust ning kui sul pole piisavalt vahendeid, siis lihtsalt ei saa, mida tahad.
Usun, et see on õiglane ja olen sellega juba leppinud, aga siiski... Rikšaga sõites küsitakse sult üldiselt 30% rohkem, kui oled valge või kui su kaaslaseks on valge inimene, sest raudselt on ta kuulus filmistaar ning sulli voolab ojadena. Kui sa oled siiski veendunud, et tahaks ikka normaalset hinda saada, siis võid 10 rikšat läbi käia ning pead lõpuks ikka tunduvalt rohkem maksma, kui tee äärde ei taha jääda, sest kõik rikšajuhid jahivad rumalaid turiste ning ei taha teiste peale oma aega raisata. See on su õnnepäev, kui mõni rikšajuht teeb sulle „jube suure teene“ ja viskab su kohalike jaoks kõrge hinnaga ära! Oma pahameele väljaelamisega neil probleeme pole, sest konarusi ja auke leidub siin külluses. Oskad kaubelda või mitte, see mure on kõigil valgetel!
In the morning the shopkeeper asked a colossal amount 3 euros for a bottle of water and two Red Bulls. Every product fortunately has an all inclusive price printed, but he asserted withouth guilt that in HIS shop there's an additional tax. I had to argue with him for 5 minutes to give me the right price!
By now it's starting to get on my nerves when Indians think all white people are ATMs and different prices apply for them. Why is that so? Indian society expects you to contribute as much as you can. If you don't have much you will be given some, but if you have more you have to give more. Simple as that, but greed and selfishness is not letting us accept that. It seems like unfair ripping for Western people, 'cause everyone is excepted to give equal contribution in our society.
I believe it's somewhat fair and have already accepted it, but... The rickshaw drivers ask about 30% more when you're white or accompanied by a white person, because she MUST BE a celebrity in it's own country and cash is spilling from their pockets. There can't be an other way! If you're still determined to get a decent price you can talk with 10 drivers and still have to pay more than darker people, if you don't want to be left at the road. They have set their sight to stupid tourists and won't waste time on others. It must be your „lucky day“ if the driver does you a „huge favor“ and agrees to drop you off for a high price for locals. They don't have a problem showing off their displeasure, 'cause bumps and holes appear in galore. Good at bargaining or not – it's a problem of every whitey!
Nüüdseks hakkab juba vaikselt närvidele käima, kuidas hindud arvavad, et kõik valged on sularahaautomaadid ning neile kehtivad teised hinnad. Aga miks siis nii? Sest India ühiskonnas oodatakse igaühelt nii suurt panust, kui palju vahendeid on. Kui pole suurt miskit anda, siis antakse sulle, aga kui on rohkem, siis pead andma kah rohkem. Simple as that, aga isekus ja ahnus ei lase seda tihtipeale mõista. Lääne inimestele tundub see ebaõiglase koorimisena, sest meie ühiskonnas oodatakse igaühelt sama panust ning kui sul pole piisavalt vahendeid, siis lihtsalt ei saa, mida tahad.
Usun, et see on õiglane ja olen sellega juba leppinud, aga siiski... Rikšaga sõites küsitakse sult üldiselt 30% rohkem, kui oled valge või kui su kaaslaseks on valge inimene, sest raudselt on ta kuulus filmistaar ning sulli voolab ojadena. Kui sa oled siiski veendunud, et tahaks ikka normaalset hinda saada, siis võid 10 rikšat läbi käia ning pead lõpuks ikka tunduvalt rohkem maksma, kui tee äärde ei taha jääda, sest kõik rikšajuhid jahivad rumalaid turiste ning ei taha teiste peale oma aega raisata. See on su õnnepäev, kui mõni rikšajuht teeb sulle „jube suure teene“ ja viskab su kohalike jaoks kõrge hinnaga ära! Oma pahameele väljaelamisega neil probleeme pole, sest konarusi ja auke leidub siin külluses. Oskad kaubelda või mitte, see mure on kõigil valgetel!
In the morning the shopkeeper asked a colossal amount 3 euros for a bottle of water and two Red Bulls. Every product fortunately has an all inclusive price printed, but he asserted withouth guilt that in HIS shop there's an additional tax. I had to argue with him for 5 minutes to give me the right price!
By now it's starting to get on my nerves when Indians think all white people are ATMs and different prices apply for them. Why is that so? Indian society expects you to contribute as much as you can. If you don't have much you will be given some, but if you have more you have to give more. Simple as that, but greed and selfishness is not letting us accept that. It seems like unfair ripping for Western people, 'cause everyone is excepted to give equal contribution in our society.
I believe it's somewhat fair and have already accepted it, but... The rickshaw drivers ask about 30% more when you're white or accompanied by a white person, because she MUST BE a celebrity in it's own country and cash is spilling from their pockets. There can't be an other way! If you're still determined to get a decent price you can talk with 10 drivers and still have to pay more than darker people, if you don't want to be left at the road. They have set their sight to stupid tourists and won't waste time on others. It must be your „lucky day“ if the driver does you a „huge favor“ and agrees to drop you off for a high price for locals. They don't have a problem showing off their displeasure, 'cause bumps and holes appear in galore. Good at bargaining or not – it's a problem of every whitey!
Aga Taj... Pilet oli mulle 750 ruupiat (8 eurot), Kabirile 20 (30 senti). Erinevalt temale sain mina ka veepudeli, mis on järelikult kõige kallim vesi mu elus.
Turvakontroll oli kõva ning nautisin üht vähest naiseks olemise eelist Indias – eraldi järjekorrad naistele ja meestele. Naisi oli mõni üksik, mehi korralik parv ehk minul läks 5, Kabiril 40 minutit. Gender imbalance at its best!
Taj Mahal ise oli kaunis ja olin väga rõõmus seda nähes, aga... Ikka ootad, et ülim armastuse monument ja UNESCO maailmapärand on midagi äärmiselt erakordset, aga minu jaoks jäi see kahjuks märkamata. Turiste oli nagu muda ning tegin vähemalt 30 „staaripilti“ kohalikega. Käisime veidi ka Red Fort'is, mis oli väga vinge ja effektne ning kuuldavasti palju suurem kui Delhis.
And Taj... The ticket was 750 rupees (around 8 euros) for me, but for Kabir 20 (30 euro cents). I also got a complimentary bottle of water, which has to be the priciest of my life so far.
Security check was tight I got to enjoy one of few perks of being a lady in India: a separate rows for women and men. For swarm of men there was only a couple of women which means it took 5 for me and 40 minutes for Kabir to get through the security check. Gender imbalance at its best!
Taj Mahal itself was lovely and I was really happy when seeing it, but... When something is as iconic and a in UNESCO World Heritage you expect it to be extraordinary which was left hidden from me. Tourists were overflowing and I did at least 30 „star“ pictures with the locals. Also wondered around at the Red Fort afterwards, which was very awesome and effective and much bigger than in Delhi as I heard.
Turvakontroll oli kõva ning nautisin üht vähest naiseks olemise eelist Indias – eraldi järjekorrad naistele ja meestele. Naisi oli mõni üksik, mehi korralik parv ehk minul läks 5, Kabiril 40 minutit. Gender imbalance at its best!
Taj Mahal ise oli kaunis ja olin väga rõõmus seda nähes, aga... Ikka ootad, et ülim armastuse monument ja UNESCO maailmapärand on midagi äärmiselt erakordset, aga minu jaoks jäi see kahjuks märkamata. Turiste oli nagu muda ning tegin vähemalt 30 „staaripilti“ kohalikega. Käisime veidi ka Red Fort'is, mis oli väga vinge ja effektne ning kuuldavasti palju suurem kui Delhis.
And Taj... The ticket was 750 rupees (around 8 euros) for me, but for Kabir 20 (30 euro cents). I also got a complimentary bottle of water, which has to be the priciest of my life so far.
Security check was tight I got to enjoy one of few perks of being a lady in India: a separate rows for women and men. For swarm of men there was only a couple of women which means it took 5 for me and 40 minutes for Kabir to get through the security check. Gender imbalance at its best!
Taj Mahal itself was lovely and I was really happy when seeing it, but... When something is as iconic and a in UNESCO World Heritage you expect it to be extraordinary which was left hidden from me. Tourists were overflowing and I did at least 30 „star“ pictures with the locals. Also wondered around at the Red Fort afterwards, which was very awesome and effective and much bigger than in Delhi as I heard.
Kabir on oma üliodava pileti üle uhke. / Baby being proud of his super cheap ticket.
Nägin ka esimest korda India raudteejaama. Inimesi (st mehi) pungil täis ning rongid hilinemas 4-20 tundi. Saime piletid naeruväärselt odava hinnaga (1 euro per nägu), kuid lõpuks läksime ikka bussiga, sest Agras oli mingisugune militaarkoolitus ning rongis poleks olnud ruumi seistagi (ja ma ausalt ei liialda!). Riigibussid on... nojah. Inimestest kummis ning üsna nukras olukorras. Sain ka 5 tundi rase olla, et istuda saaksin. Kahjuks polnud see eriline probleem, sest India toit koosneb suuremalt jaolt süsivesikutest, õlist ja nisujahust.
Koju jõudes märkasin, et mu juuksed olid saastest rastadeks muutunud ning küürisin 2 päeva musti tükke oma kõrvadest, ninast ja kehalt. Pole ka ime, sest Agra on üks kõige saastatuimaid linnu Indias! Keegi võiks mulle purgitäie saastevaba Eesti värsket õhku saata!
I also got the first experience of the Indian railway station. Laden with people (read: men) and trains getting late for 4-20 hours. Bought ridiculously cheap tickets for 1 euro per face, but still ended up going with the bus. There was some kind of military training in Agra and even wouldn't had room to stand in the train without exaggerations. Government buses are... Well, stretched from people and in a pretty wistful situation. I had a chance to be pregnant for 5 hours to get a seat. Unfortunately it wasn't too big of a problem due to Indian food consisting mostly of carbs, oil and wheat flour.
At home I noticed my hair turning into dreadlocks from hard pollution and scrubbed black pieces of my body, ears and nose for 2 days. No wonder, 'cause Agra is one of the most polluted cities in India! Someone should send me a nice jar of fresh Estonian unpolluted air!
Koju jõudes märkasin, et mu juuksed olid saastest rastadeks muutunud ning küürisin 2 päeva musti tükke oma kõrvadest, ninast ja kehalt. Pole ka ime, sest Agra on üks kõige saastatuimaid linnu Indias! Keegi võiks mulle purgitäie saastevaba Eesti värsket õhku saata!
I also got the first experience of the Indian railway station. Laden with people (read: men) and trains getting late for 4-20 hours. Bought ridiculously cheap tickets for 1 euro per face, but still ended up going with the bus. There was some kind of military training in Agra and even wouldn't had room to stand in the train without exaggerations. Government buses are... Well, stretched from people and in a pretty wistful situation. I had a chance to be pregnant for 5 hours to get a seat. Unfortunately it wasn't too big of a problem due to Indian food consisting mostly of carbs, oil and wheat flour.
At home I noticed my hair turning into dreadlocks from hard pollution and scrubbed black pieces of my body, ears and nose for 2 days. No wonder, 'cause Agra is one of the most polluted cities in India! Someone should send me a nice jar of fresh Estonian unpolluted air!
Taj = kroon = crown
Taj Mahal saastesse uppumas (paari km kauguselt). / Taj Mahal dwownig into pollution (from a few km away).
Prügijõgi. / Trash river.
Haisujõgi taustaks saaste. / Stinky river with the background of pollution.