Well, peale südantlõhestavalt kurba hüvastijättu Goast rongile istudes googeldasin välja, et Kesk-Keralas on järgmisel päeval mingisugune festival. Vikipeediast suurt muud aru saanud/meelde jäänud, kui et näen 3 küla elevantse ja tulevärki. Noh... yolo.
Hommikul linna saabudes tundus koht küll ikka väga off the beaten track ning uskumatult lamp, et ma seal olen. Mulle tundus, et olen ainus inglise keelt rääkiv tegelane terves linnas. Otsisin tund aega põrgukuumuses ööbimiskohta, sest kõik u Põlva suuruse linna 6 majutusasutust kolmekordistasid oma hinnad aasta ainukeseks sündmuseks, kus inimestel reaalselt seal ööbimiseks on põhjust. Lõpus nõustusin meeleheitest ning pool pisarat silmas maksma 17 eurot öö eest (1500 ruupiat, mille eest peaks üldiselt väga vonksi hotsteli saama) üsna nukras kohakeses, kus pesemisvõimaluseks on improviseeritud ämbridušš vetsus ning hiljem selgus, et ka öine snäkk on hinna sees, kuid mitte minu kõhule – õhtul tuppa tulles avastasin, et terve mu seljakoti ning toa on vallutanud sipelgametropol.
Well, after a heartbreakingly sad "see you soon!" in Goa I was sitting on the train to Kerala with nothing left to do than seach for what is waiting for me. I googled that there is somekind of festival in Central-Kerala. Didn't remember/understand more from the Wikipedia article than I should expect to see three villages' elephants and some fireworks. Hmm, yolo...
When I arrived there early in the morning with Goa blues and a train lag it felt very off the beaten track and me being there extremely random. I seemed to be the only one who is able to communicate in English since everyone mumbled something in Tamili and pointed at the next person when I was approaching them. I was going around for an hour sweltering in humid warmth and looking for a place to stay, 'cause all 6 hotels-hostels of the town tripled their prices for the only event when people actually have a reason to stay there. Half-crying and desperate as hell agreed to pay 17€ for a night (1500 rupees which usually guarantees you a quite OK place!) in a very melancholic place with an improvised bucket shower in the toilet and an inclusive night snack, unfortunately not for me: discovered an ant metropol in my room and a gang having a blast in my bag when coming back in the evening!
Hommikul linna saabudes tundus koht küll ikka väga off the beaten track ning uskumatult lamp, et ma seal olen. Mulle tundus, et olen ainus inglise keelt rääkiv tegelane terves linnas. Otsisin tund aega põrgukuumuses ööbimiskohta, sest kõik u Põlva suuruse linna 6 majutusasutust kolmekordistasid oma hinnad aasta ainukeseks sündmuseks, kus inimestel reaalselt seal ööbimiseks on põhjust. Lõpus nõustusin meeleheitest ning pool pisarat silmas maksma 17 eurot öö eest (1500 ruupiat, mille eest peaks üldiselt väga vonksi hotsteli saama) üsna nukras kohakeses, kus pesemisvõimaluseks on improviseeritud ämbridušš vetsus ning hiljem selgus, et ka öine snäkk on hinna sees, kuid mitte minu kõhule – õhtul tuppa tulles avastasin, et terve mu seljakoti ning toa on vallutanud sipelgametropol.
Well, after a heartbreakingly sad "see you soon!" in Goa I was sitting on the train to Kerala with nothing left to do than seach for what is waiting for me. I googled that there is somekind of festival in Central-Kerala. Didn't remember/understand more from the Wikipedia article than I should expect to see three villages' elephants and some fireworks. Hmm, yolo...
When I arrived there early in the morning with Goa blues and a train lag it felt very off the beaten track and me being there extremely random. I seemed to be the only one who is able to communicate in English since everyone mumbled something in Tamili and pointed at the next person when I was approaching them. I was going around for an hour sweltering in humid warmth and looking for a place to stay, 'cause all 6 hotels-hostels of the town tripled their prices for the only event when people actually have a reason to stay there. Half-crying and desperate as hell agreed to pay 17€ for a night (1500 rupees which usually guarantees you a quite OK place!) in a very melancholic place with an improvised bucket shower in the toilet and an inclusive night snack, unfortunately not for me: discovered an ant metropol in my room and a gang having a blast in my bag when coming back in the evening!
Kerala hapupiim (ingveri, tšilli ja soolaga maitsetatud), mida nad seal festivali vaimus rõõmsalt tasuta jagasid. Näm-nämm! / Keralan buttermilk (flavored with ginger, chilli and salt) what was handed out for free in a festive spirit. Yum-yum-yummy!
Jalutasin ning ostsin tänava äärsest putkast arbuusijooki mõeldes, et see on tegelikult restoran. Jalutasin hoopiski nende koju! Väga toredad inimesed! / Bought some watermelon drink from the roadside stand and thought it was a restaurant. Walked into these guys' home instead! Very nice people!
Lõuna-India meestemood 1890-2890. / South-Indian men's fashion 1890-2890.
Rõõmsas meeleolus noored kommunistlikud noored.
Kerala on esimene (osa)riik maailmas, kus valiti võimule 70ndatel vabade valimiste alusel kommunistlik partei. Kommunism õitseb Keralas siiani iga nurga peal.
Jolly young communist youngsters.
Kerala is the first state in the world where Communist party was freely elected in the 70s. Communism still blossoms on every corner in Kerala.
Kerala on esimene (osa)riik maailmas, kus valiti võimule 70ndatel vabade valimiste alusel kommunistlik partei. Kommunism õitseb Keralas siiani iga nurga peal.
Jolly young communist youngsters.
Kerala is the first state in the world where Communist party was freely elected in the 70s. Communism still blossoms on every corner in Kerala.
Täiskuu pidu on oma tee ka Krishnani leidnud. / Full Moon party has also found it's way to Krishna.
Pärastlõunal jalutasin festivaliväljakule: põld, kus oli tempel ning festivali jaoks 2 vilkuvat maja püstitatud. Inimesi oli nagu muda, kuigi päike kõrvetas seniidis. Tolle hetke atraktsioonideks olid 9 kaunistatud elevanti, kelle seljas oli aeg-ajalt tantsivad 3 poissi (esimene hoidis vihmavarju, keskmine karvaseid pom-pome ning viimane ümmargusi kaunistuspulki) ning 5 hullumeelset tantsijat (kujutle ette tribal ritaali).
Ambled to the festival ground in the afternoon. It was a regular field with 2 huge blinking houses erected just for the festival where people flocked together although the Sun was roasting in zenith. The attractions everyone was here to see were 9 decorated elephants carrying occasionally dancing 3 boys (the first was assigned to hold the umbrella, middle hairy pom-poms and last round decoration sticks) and 5 craaaaaazy dancers who carried the stereotype of a a tribal meeting in an ease.
Ambled to the festival ground in the afternoon. It was a regular field with 2 huge blinking houses erected just for the festival where people flocked together although the Sun was roasting in zenith. The attractions everyone was here to see were 9 decorated elephants carrying occasionally dancing 3 boys (the first was assigned to hold the umbrella, middle hairy pom-poms and last round decoration sticks) and 5 craaaaaazy dancers who carried the stereotype of a a tribal meeting in an ease.
Pügatud. / Trimmed.
Tantsijad mulle suurt huvi ei pakkunud, aga vantsid olid küll vinged! Katsuda neid ei saanud ning mul on selle üle hea meel, sest 100 000 sind jõllitavat silmapaari on mullegi väga stressirohke rääkimata loomast, kes ei pruugi aru saada, milleks see kõik vajalik on.
Sattusin tulevärki oodates mitu korda rääkima ühega korraldajatest ning lõpuks anti mulle erikülalise sildike ning sain ka selle köögipoolt näha. Nende tulevärk pole mitte vaatepildiks silmale, vaid rohkem "kuuldemänguks" kõrvale. Põhimõtteliselt pannakse tuhatkond pisikest ja mitte nii pisikest pommi süstemaatiliselt lõhkema, mis on nende jaoks äärmiselt meelelahutuslik. Sain teada, et see on omamoodi sõbralik küladevaheline mõõduvõtt, et kellel siis lõpus suurem on... Noh, poisid jäävad poisteks. Ainult, et jube kallis mõõduvõtt on: üks pommike maksab 3000 ruupiat = üle 30 euro ning ühel küla paugutamine maksab 6-8 000 000 ruupiat ehk 70-95 000 eurot, mille maksavad oma taskust kinni külaelanikud!!!
Wasn't too interested in the dancers, but for an European girl like me the elephants were awesome! No one was allowed to touch them and I'm glad: 100 000 eyes glaring at you non-stop would freak me out in a second not to talk about an animal who might not understand why this all is necessary.
Waiting for the fireworks, walking, standing and sitting in wrong places all the time ended up talking to an organizer who gave me the "title" of a special guest and showed me the kitchen side of this all. The fireworks is something all different than you and I would expect, it's a "pleasure" for the ears not the eyes. They explode some thousand tiny and not so tiny boms in systematic way and it's supposed to be very entertaining. He told me that this kind of friendly competition between the villages is for showing who has the bigger one... Well, boys will be boys. But... It's a very expensive competition: one bomb costs at least 3000 rupees (more than 32€) and the whole banging costs 6-8 000 000 rupees (70-95 000€!) which will be covered by the villagers!
Sattusin tulevärki oodates mitu korda rääkima ühega korraldajatest ning lõpuks anti mulle erikülalise sildike ning sain ka selle köögipoolt näha. Nende tulevärk pole mitte vaatepildiks silmale, vaid rohkem "kuuldemänguks" kõrvale. Põhimõtteliselt pannakse tuhatkond pisikest ja mitte nii pisikest pommi süstemaatiliselt lõhkema, mis on nende jaoks äärmiselt meelelahutuslik. Sain teada, et see on omamoodi sõbralik küladevaheline mõõduvõtt, et kellel siis lõpus suurem on... Noh, poisid jäävad poisteks. Ainult, et jube kallis mõõduvõtt on: üks pommike maksab 3000 ruupiat = üle 30 euro ning ühel küla paugutamine maksab 6-8 000 000 ruupiat ehk 70-95 000 eurot, mille maksavad oma taskust kinni külaelanikud!!!
Wasn't too interested in the dancers, but for an European girl like me the elephants were awesome! No one was allowed to touch them and I'm glad: 100 000 eyes glaring at you non-stop would freak me out in a second not to talk about an animal who might not understand why this all is necessary.
Waiting for the fireworks, walking, standing and sitting in wrong places all the time ended up talking to an organizer who gave me the "title" of a special guest and showed me the kitchen side of this all. The fireworks is something all different than you and I would expect, it's a "pleasure" for the ears not the eyes. They explode some thousand tiny and not so tiny boms in systematic way and it's supposed to be very entertaining. He told me that this kind of friendly competition between the villages is for showing who has the bigger one... Well, boys will be boys. But... It's a very expensive competition: one bomb costs at least 3000 rupees (more than 32€) and the whole banging costs 6-8 000 000 rupees (70-95 000€!) which will be covered by the villagers!
Tulevärvi algus, pisikesed pommid. / The beginning of the fireworks, small bomns.
Eeem, ma väga ei viitsi enam sinuga pilti teha. / Eeeem, I don't really feel like having yet another pic with you.
Pärast kahe küla tulevärki hakkas mu pea valutama ning mõtlesin hostelisse puhkama minna. See polnud aga nii lihtne: teise küla pommide tükid süütasid osad kolmanda küla omadest ning organiseerijatel oli palju asjatamist, et see kõigepealt kahjutuks teha ja siis vaatemänguga jätkata. Kuna see läks kohalikele õudsalt peale, siis olid kõik väljapääsud kas ligipääsmatud või paksul ummistatud. Ahjaa, kas ma ütlesin, et pealtvaatajatest olid 99% mehed? Iseenesest polnud see varem häiriv, kuid sel hetkel tundsin end üle pika aja ebaturvaliselt, sellest mind oleks elusalt nahka pistetud, kui oleks hakanud ekstaasis tropist läbi trügima. Nägin ka kaht sama murega prantsuse paari ning lõpuks pidime seetõttu 2 tundi seal veel veetma. Õhku kulminatsiooniks oli 3 küla 27 elevandi show, kus iga küla 9 vantsi ning "ratsanikud" tulid kolmest suunast, vahetasid mitmeid kordi efektselt varje ning lõpuks rivistasid kõik 27 elevanti üksteise kõrvale. See kõik võttis kaaaaua aega, sest elevandid on ühed väga aeglased loomad!
My head started to ache after two villages' fireworks and decided to go for a rest in the hostel. The bomb fragments of the second village set off some third village's bombs so it wasn't that easy. It took a lot of time to first deminate them and then continue with the spectacle. Since the locals were very keen on seeing it all the exits were unreachable or clogged with men. Oh, yeah, did I tell that 99% of the audition was men? It wasn't disturbing before, but that was a moment over a long time I felt unsafe, 'cause I would have been eaten alive as a white blondish girl alone when starting to push through a croud of extatic Indian village men. Saw two French couples with the same consern with whom we had to spent 3 extra hours on the premise because of the extreme amount of crowd. The culmination of the night was the 27 elephants show when all 9 elephants from the same village with their "riders" approached the centre of the ground from different directions lined up next to each other symbolizing the villages' unity. It all took a looooot of time, 'cause it you didn't know before, elephants are one slow animals!
My head started to ache after two villages' fireworks and decided to go for a rest in the hostel. The bomb fragments of the second village set off some third village's bombs so it wasn't that easy. It took a lot of time to first deminate them and then continue with the spectacle. Since the locals were very keen on seeing it all the exits were unreachable or clogged with men. Oh, yeah, did I tell that 99% of the audition was men? It wasn't disturbing before, but that was a moment over a long time I felt unsafe, 'cause I would have been eaten alive as a white blondish girl alone when starting to push through a croud of extatic Indian village men. Saw two French couples with the same consern with whom we had to spent 3 extra hours on the premise because of the extreme amount of crowd. The culmination of the night was the 27 elephants show when all 9 elephants from the same village with their "riders" approached the centre of the ground from different directions lined up next to each other symbolizing the villages' unity. It all took a looooot of time, 'cause it you didn't know before, elephants are one slow animals!
Men, men, men, men, menly men!